| A Guide
To Spain's Quirkier Festivals by Mike McDougall
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Spaniards seem rarely to
need much of a reason for a fiesta or festival of some sort and you can
pretty much guarantee that wherever you are in Spain there will be some
merrymaking going on somewhere in honour of a patron saint - I've decided
to look at some of Spain's quirkier, slightly less known festivals and
enlighten readers as to some of the stranger practices which take place
at various times around the country.
Our
journey begins in the east of the country in the town of Bunol in the Valencia
region where a week long festival in honour of the town's patron saint,
San Luis Bertran, ends in the famous "Tomatina", a two hour tomato fight
where lorries bring in 120,000 kg of tomatoes for the locals to pelt each
other with. It's all a bit of a free-for-all and it's usually girls pitted
against boys for two hours of madness from 11am to 1pm. Participants can
expect to get extremely messy and it's advisable to wear something old,
and preferably red, if you don't want the stains to show up. Despite the
"Tomatina" clearly being the highlight, there are many other facets of
the festival to be enjoyed throughout the week with fireworks, parades
and a paella cook-off amongst the most notable.
Not so far away in the city
of Valencia, townsfolk revel for a week in the festivities of "Las Fallas",
another one of Spain's more unique festivals. The raucous week of celebration
takes place in March and is most notable for "Las Fallas" which are huge
papier-mâché figures up to 60 feet in height. Built in the
streets, the figures often have a satirical edge; Tony Blair and George
Bush's effigies graced last year's festival. The culmination of the merry-making
comes on the "Night of Fire" when all 700 of "Las fallas" are burnt to
a cinder turning many of the city's streets into huge bonfires. Undoubtedly
the local fire services busiest evening of the year and certainly one not
to be missed by visitors to the region.
Next stop is Catalonia and
the town of Valls located about 100km south west of Barcelona, where every
year townsfolk gather for the legendary "Calcotada". A celebration of food
and in particular the "calcot" (similar to a spring onion) with road side
bbq's char grilling piles of them for locals to eat. There's even a hug
pot of dipping sauce on hand to spice things up a bit. The main event is
the eating competition as burly local champions from all over the region
line up to see how many onions they can put away in 45 minutes, apparently
it's not uncommon for the victor to eat in excess of 300! After a winner
has been decided the town decamps to huge local cafeterias where for a
small fee the "calcots" are served in plentiful numbers alongside grilled
meats and washed down with as much red wine as you can drink. It's certainly
off the beaten track a little bit and for that reason you won't see many
tourists but expect a warm welcome from the locals who will, undoubtedly,
be in high spirits.
29th
June, the day of San Pedro and we're deep in Spain's wine producing heartland,
La Rioja, where for one day every year the medieval town of Haro is host
to the famous "Batalla de Vino" (literally "Wine Battle"). Apparently the
battle's origins lie in an ancient dispute with between Haro and its neighbours.
These days the fight is pretty
good natured with thousands of gallons of wine being hurled around the
battleground (a hillside overlooking Haro). Like the Tomatina, this is
going to be a messy one and I'd suggest coming prepared with some ammunition
of your own, the locals have been doing this for years so expect to take
a few shots early on.
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