to Travel Articles
Puerto de Santa Maria,
Andalucia. Home of Sherry. by Nick Nutter
Steeped in history the Spanish
resort of Puerto de Santa Maria in western Andalucia is a destination not
to be missed for many reasons.
Founded in the 13th Century
the San Marcos castle is now the geographical centre of the town. It was
built to protect the then small village from pirates and it was here that,
in 1492, Christopher Columbus tried unsuccessfully to persuade the resident
Duke of Medinaceli to finance his first voyage of discovery across the
Atlantic. It was in this castle that the trader, Juan De La Cosa, who supplied
Columbus's three ships, the Santa Maria (the name is a coincidence that
has led to much confusion), the Pinta and Nina, drew his world map in 1500
that first showed the American continent. Columbus never liked the Santa
Maria and he was relieved to transfer his command to the Nina when the
Santa Maria foundered on rocks on the coast of Hispaniola on the first
To confuse the visitor to
Puerto de Santa Maria even more than its name and the tenuous link to Columbus,
a replica of the Nina occupies a prominent position on a roundabout as
you enter the town. Columbus actually started his first voyage from Palos,
a small port near Huelva, his second and fourth from Cadiz and his third
set that record straight we can now look at a product for which this town
is justly famous - sherry. Until the rail line from Jerez to Cadiz was
built all the sherry from Jerez was stored in warehouses at Santa Maria
before being shipped all over the world. Famous names like Osborne and
Terry are written in large letters on these massive bodegas that occupy
whole blocks near the port area. Many bodegas allow sampling of the product;
ask for fino for the driest palest sherry, drunk cold and young, amontillado,
slightly aged and darker but still dry, or dark, sweeter, luscious oloroso.
Whilst here let's dispel
another myth. Manzanilla is similar to fino but can only be produced at
Sanlucar de Barrameda where there is a particular salty microclimate that
imparts a unique tang to the wine.
Sherry became popular in
the UK after the mid 16th Century when Francis Drake nabbed a few barrels
during the sacking of Cadiz. In fact for many years the wine was known
as 'sac' or 'dry sac'. Puerto de Santa Maria is linked to Cadiz by a passenger
only ferry that runs every two hours across the sheltered Bay of Cadiz.
Its comings and goings from the ferry dock are the scene of tearful farewells
and joyful reunions. Maybe the locals still dread meeting Drake half way
After sampling the sherry
there can be nothing that beats a visit to Romerijo for lunch. This al
fresco restaurant on the promenade specialises in shellfish and to obtain
best value you have to do as the locals do. First go into the 'shop'. There
you will encounter a huge range of fresh shellfish, some familiar, some
not. Be adventurous, its fun. Everything, from the smallest Cadiz Bay shrimp
(an essential ingredient in crispy camerones or shrimp pancakes) to huge
Norwegian lobsters is clearly marked for sale by the quarter, half and
full kilo. Make your selection, watch it being cooked and pay. It will
be wrapped in a paper cone. Take your fish to a vacant table. Be warned,
after 2pm there is little chance of a table immediately. A waiter will
offer you a menu from which you can chose salads, bread, wine and so on
to go with your fish. He will also bring your plates, cutlery, skewers
for prising the meat out of shells and claw crackers. That's it, enjoy.
Throw waste and shells in the plastic bucket and go back to the 'shop'
for more but make sure you leave somebody at the table or it will be occupied
when you return.
If you can still move after
Romerijos, Puerto de Santa Maria has more to offer. About 10 minutes drive
out of town is the archaeological site of Dona Blanca. This site dates
back to 2000 BC, towards the end of the Copper Age. Later it was occupied
by that almost mythical people the Tartessians who were joined by the Phoenicians
from about 750 BC and then by the Romans. Artefacts from the site are on
display in the Municipal Museum. Opposite the museum is the cathedral,
whose spires and turrets are now home to a large number of storks.
Wandering the streets reveals
small shops that look as if they have been there since the town was founded
and larger places selling fashionable clothing. Not a Mercadona in sight.
South of the port is the
protected area of Cadiz Bay. This large area of marismas is home to thousands
of waders including flocks of flamingos. There is limited access to the
marismas from Sancti Petri. The coast north of the port has fine beaches
and the area is protected in aid of that charming lizard, the chameleon.
There is enough to see and
do in Puerto de la Santa Maria to make a lazy long weekend but lots of
Spanish families think the same way so accommodation is at a premium. It
is advisable to book in advance.
About the Author - Nick is
the editor of a magazine on the Costa del Sol, Andalucia-life.com
to the home page
to Travel Articles